Dylan Eitharong: The American-Thai Chef Redefining Bangkok's Culinary Scene

In a semi-hidden location in northern Bangkok, Dylan Eitharong has established Haawm, a restaurant that has quickly gained a reputation for its innovative take on Thai cuisine. At just 31 years old, Eitharong, who was born in Florida to a Thai father and an American mother, has crafted a unique culinary identity that reflects both his heritage and personal style. Despite not growing up speaking Thai, Eitharong found a connection to his father's culture through food, leading him to create an intimate 8-seat restaurant that features an ever-changing prix fixe menu.

Eitharong's culinary approach blends historical Thai recipes with modern techniques, resulting in dishes that are both deeply rooted in tradition and refreshingly original. His restaurant has become a must-visit for both local diners and international visitors, with a waiting list that stretches for months, accessible only through direct messages on Instagram.

Eitharong's journey into the culinary world was somewhat accidental. Initially a hobbyist, he began cooking Thai food at home, inspired by his family's cooking. After hosting pop-up events in Florida, he decided to move to Thailand, where he believed he could deepen his understanding of Thai cuisine. His plans were altered by the COVID-19 pandemic, which prompted him to pivot from running an Airbnb to launching his restaurant from home.

Reflecting on his culinary philosophy, Eitharong emphasizes the importance of bold flavors and memorable dishes. He aims for every bite to be impactful, likening his food to a punk rock song—short, quick, and loud. His signature dishes have included deep-fried Brussels sprouts, which became a fan favorite despite his desire to keep the menu fresh and innovative.

Eitharong's culinary style is influenced by his experiences in Thailand, where he has gained access to fresh ingredients and a vibrant food culture. He has embraced a more relaxed approach to cooking, allowing him to experiment with flavors and techniques that resonate with his personal taste. As he prepares to cook for travelers in Chiang Mai this November, he looks forward to exploring local markets and incorporating seasonal ingredients into his dishes.

While Eitharong is committed to Haawm, he is also exploring new ventures, including a pop-up restaurant called Kreung, which offers a more playful and inauthentic take on Thai food. However, Haawm remains his primary focus, where he enjoys the intimate setting of cooking for guests and sharing his culinary vision.